The peak body for rock climbing in Victoria has thrown its support behind mooted plans to avoid blanket climbing bans and allow access to routes near culturally significant sites at Mount Arapiles Dyurrite.
The Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park, near Horsham, is one of Australia’s most famous rock climbing destinations.
It has also become a flashpoint between climbing and cultural heritage, leading to fears blanket bans could be put in place to protect culturally significant sites.
Climbing Victoria said a yet-to-be-released Parks Victoria proposal would scrap blanket climbing bans, allow access to most routes, and re-route climbs near culturally significant sites.
The peak body said the amendment to the park’s management plan would “result in vastly greater access to climbing and other activities”.
It said climbs would remain open where they did not intersect with culturally significant sites, and that where intersections existed, “practical methods” of mitigation could include rerouting.
“If no realistic means of mitigation exists, then those affected climbs will be closed,”
it said.
It said a “small percentage” of the 3,300 climbs at Dyurrite were expected to be affected by potential closures.
CV said a new proposed amendment from Parks Victoria could be ready for publication as soon as this week.
Area home to culturally significant sites
The Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park Management Plan was first written in 1991.
In 2024, Parks Victoria published a draft amendment to the plan, proposing to close up to more than half of the park’s rock climbing areas to protect sensitive Indigenous cultural sites.
The Mount Arapiles Dyurrite area is home to a number of culturally significant sites, including ancient rock art, scar trees, quarries and artefacts linked to Wotjobaluk Traditional Owners, whose connection to the landscape spans tens of thousands of years.
The Barengi Gadjin Land Council, the official corporate body that represents and manages the Wotjobaluk, Jaadwa, Jadawadjali, Wergaia, and Jupagulk peoples, declined to comment.
Parks Victoria finalising proposal
The new draft document was expected to rule out several closures proposed last year, including at Mitre Rock, according to Climbing Victoria.
It would not introduce new environmental restrictions beyond existing seasonal protections such as falcon nesting periods, the peak body reported.
Parks Victoria is understood to be finalising its amendment after receiving formal advice from Wotjobaluk Traditional Owners.
A four-week public engagement process is expected once the draft is released.
Parks Victoria has been contacted for comment.
A rock climber swinging across the rook of Kachoong in the Northern Group at Mount Arapiles. (Supplied: Glenn Tempest)
Climbers urged to repay traditional owners’ trust
Climbing Victoria chair Mike Rockell said the community was “very heartened” by the proposed changes.
“Overall, we see it as a new and much better way of accommodating climbing while still ensuring the protection of cultural heritage,” he said.
“We hope that this can now lead to much better and positive relationships with the traditional owners.“
The proposal is understood to follow recent meetings with the Dyurrite Community Working Group (DCWG), drawing on recommendations from a sub-working group of experts with input from Wotjobaluk Traditional Owners.
Mike Rockell says he hopes the proposal will lead to a better relationship between climbers and traditional owners. (Supplied: Mike Rockell)
Last year, some rock climbers publicly urged others to ignore Parks Victoria’s requests to avoid culturally significant routes.
Climbing Victoria said elements of the new plan reflected a level of trust between traditional owners and climbers.
“We acknowledge the courage and trust of the Wotjobaluk people in joining the DCWG, hearing community concerns and responding to them in such a meaningful way,” it said.
“We encourage climbers to repay that trust by supporting the cultural heritage protection measures at Dyurrite, caring for the landscape and building a healthy community.”
Mr Rockell said some climbers would deem any closures ‘unacceptable’.
“Overall it gives security to the future of climbing at Arapiles and indeed to the future of the Natimuk township,”
he said.
