Inside Iran women are also pro regime and Ayatollah Khamenei and see Donald Trump as the villain

Iran’s ‘Shirzanen’ or ‘Lionesses’ have been fighting for rights since the 1979 Revolution, when the hardline Islamist regime made the hijab mandatory.

But for every one of them, there are other women: the ones who support the Ayatollah and the strict observance of Shia Islam.

They are vocal and ready to strike at those they see as the ultimate infidels. As the ABC travels around inside Tehran, they tell us their stories.

These women are the faithful foot soldiers of the Islamic Republic of Iran, and since the outbreak of the war with Israel and the United States on February 28, they have been mobilising across the country.

On this cool night in Tehran, they are huddled together on the edge of Engelab or Revolution Square.

They are surrounded by hundreds of people waving Iran’s green, white and red flag.

The air is thick with patriotism and disdain for the United States and Israel. 

As the women gather, music blares from speakers and they strain to hear instructions on how to use high-powered weapons.

“In a combat zone, if I have cover, like a vehicle, a building, or a trench … then I fire standing up,” says the woman standing in the middle of the huddle, brandishing an AK-47.

She has thick, shapely eyebrows and wears military fatigues under a black chador that flows from her head to her feet.

“And let me say something else: with weapons, physical strength is not what matters,” she says.

This scene plays out in Tehran’s public squares as women gather and vow to fight and die for leaders who are accused of brutalising them. 

“Iran’s enemies are America and the Zionist regime of Israel, who have proven their cruelty and injustice by killing children and innocent people,” says Zahra Taheri, a studious-looking 14-year-old who had been listening intently to the woman with the gun.

A teenage girl wearing traditional Islamic attire holding the Iranian flag beside her.
14-year-old Zahra Taheri (right) attended the pro-government rally. ()
A woman instructing a group of women about firearms while holding a rifle.
Women and girls being instructed on how to hold, position and fire a rifle and seek cover if there is return fire.()
A young girl in traditional Islamic attire looking at a woman holding a rifle.
Families congregate to hear patriotic anthems and speeches.()
Women in traditional Islamic attire waving a yellow Hezbollah flag.
Women from the ultra-conservative and religious support base for the country’s clerical government wave Hezbollah flags at nightly rallies in Tehran. ()

We were deeply outraged. But we still believe that we will never back down in the face of the enemy.

In May, the ABC was given rare access to the country on the condition that we remain in Tehran and work with a translator from a pre-approved local media company. The translations were independently verified for accuracy.

The first event we are directed to is the pro-regime rally at Enqelab Square, a sign of the support for a war that started when former Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei was killed in a joint US-Israeli strike.

Two girls and a young boy standing on a stage waving Iranian flags.
Pro-government rallies have been taking place every night since hostilities began on February 28.()
A young boy in a military uniform sitting at a chair with paper and crayons in front of him. He does a salute.
A child at the rally. ()
A man wearing a bandana holds up a flag of Iran amongst a crowd.
For these supporters, the American and Israeli governments are the enemy. ()

The people attending these rallies represent a specific segment of Iranian society — those who are deeply conservative and deeply committed to a strict observance of Shia Islam espoused by the clerical government. 

Almost all the women at the rallies are dressed in the traditional chador.

Their attire is in stark contrast to women in most neighbourhoods we visit throughout Tehran, where many do not even wear a headscarf. 

A mural of the Statue of Liberty with her right arm broken off, draped in the US flag in red.
In Tehran there are several murals which take aim at the USA, while others claim to depict America’s great crimes.()
An illustration of a gun painted in the colours of the US flag - blue, red and white - on the side of a wall.
Illustrations outside the old American embassy in Tehran.()
A red and blue mural depicting the Iraq War.
A mural depicting the Iraq War.()

This community remains enraged by the killing of the 86-year-old Supreme Leader in February. 

For almost 37 years, he was the ultimate defender of their faith and the only political leader many Iranians had ever known.

He was also the leader who oversaw the brutal repression of protesters against his regime.

A mural of Ali Khamenei on the street of Tehran.
The entrance to the memorial site for Ali Khamenei.()

Three months on from his death, and under the rule of his son Ayatollah Mojtaba Khamenei, the rage felt by his supporters is still palpable at a memorial site erected at the entrance of Khamenei senior’s bombed-out compound.

Hundreds of people, the majority of whom are women, congregate here every night to mourn his death.

“I loved him more than my own father,” says Zeinab, 33, her face wet with tears. 

“Our leader gave us women freedom. He gave us women critical thought. He taught us independence.

And Trump killed him. I only want revenge.

A woman in a black chador holding her daughter. She has her left fist raised.
Zeinab has brought her young children to a memorial for Ali Khamenei on Shahid Keshvardoost Street.()

Martyr versus the ultimate ‘infidel’

Amongst Iran’s most devout Shias, Ali Khamenei is revered as a martyr, while US President Donald Trump is viewed as the ultimate ‘infidel’.

In April the president threatened to annihilate Iran, saying that “a whole civilisation will die tonight” unless the country agrees on a deal to end a war that the US and Israel initiated. 

Since then human rights monitors estimate that more than 1,700 civilians have been killed in attacks on Iran alone.

Two men holding flags featuring Iran's Supreme Leaders.
Ali Khamenei is revered as a martyr among Iran’s pro-government supporters. ()
A caricature of Donald Trump's face on a box.
Caricatures of Donald Trump have been used in Tehran’s pro-government rallies to mock the US leader.()
A damaged building destroyed by a military strike.
Since the start of the conflict, the IDF said it had dropped more than 12,000 bombs across Iran and 3,600 bombs on Tehran alone.()
An upside down car with other ruined cars nearby.
Human rights monitors say more than 1,700 civilians have died in Iran from the conflict with the US and Israel. ()

Amongst the dead are the 120 children killed in the southern city of Minab when a suspected American tomahawk missile struck their primary school.

While the US government has not accepted responsibility, some reports suggest the US military mistook the school for a neighbouring military base.

A pink chair, table and bench inside a classroom destroyed by a military strike.
The school in Minab that was damaged by a strike on February 28.()
A school destroyed by a military strike. There is rubble on the ground.
120 schoolchildren were killed in the strike. ()
A site full of rubble and dirt following a military strike.
Some reports suggest the US mistook the school for a neighbouring military base.()

“Every time I see images of that school, it breaks my heart,” says Rahele Najafizadeh, 47, a mother of three and Qur’anic studies teacher at one of the Islamic Azad Universities in Tehran.

“Maybe it’s because I have a child of that age myself. I simply cannot accept it.”

Iran Odyssey - Rahele Najafizadeh reads Koran
Rahele Najafizadeh is an Islamic studies teacher and has three children.()
A woman reads a large book while sitting on the floor of a home.
A 250-year-old handwritten Arabic-language Koran at Rahele’s home in Tehran.()

She attends rallies almost every night since the war erupted, chanting “Death to the US, Death to Israel”.

“What I have witnessed in society is that it has had a very powerful impact,” Rahele tells 7.30.

A child sitting at the front of a beige armoured vehicle with his mother in front of him.
The deaths of schoolchildren in Minab sparked outrage in Iran. ()

“The deaths of the children of Minab showed many people the cruelty of the United States and Israel. 

“For a large number of people, this has been an awakening.”

Large posters of children's faces on display in a public garden.
Large posters on display at Tajrish Square show images of the children killed by a suspected US strike on a school in Minab. ()

Authorities have fuelled this anger by erecting wall-sized photos of the dead children along busy roads in the capital, a chilling reminder of the price innocent Iranians have paid in this war.

A large billboard on the side of a building that reads 'Down with the USA'.
Instead of commercial billboards, authorities have erected giant propaganda billboards taking aim at the US and Israel with messages of defiance against war.()

Across Tehran there are also several murals painted on walls, depicting anti-American rhetoric.

Two people walking past a wall that says "America killed 165 Minab's students".
Activists say the Iranian government is using outrage over Israel and America’s airstrikes to deflect from its own repression.()

And while the public outrage is genuine, activists say the Islamic Republic continues to use America’s air strikes and attacks to deflect attention away from its own deadly repression of those who speak out against the regime.

Surviving the ‘hunting season’

Just four months ago crowds of people mobilised across the country in the largest uprising Iran has seen since the 1979 Revolution.

According to a UN Fact-Finding Mission, the demonstrations began after merchants in Tehran’s Grand Bazaar went on strike over a collapsing currency and food inflation spiking above 70 per cent. 

A narrow street with several jewllery merchants and people walking by.
Merchants in Tehran’s Grand Bazaar went on strike over a collapsing currency and inflation.()
A merchant standing at a market stall with several different spices on display.
The further economic uncertainty caused by the war is making people save rather than spend.()

The unrest rapidly spread across all 31 provinces in the country.

People demanded their basic right to earn a living. What they got was the most violent crackdown inflicted on Iranians in decades. 

Thousands were killed by security forces.

“I use the phrase ‘hunting season’. That’s exactly what it was like,” says a female protester in her 20s, who participated in the uprising and sent 7.30 anonymous voice notes from inside Iran.

“It’s like it was a game for them, like entertainment. 

“They had weapons and we were bare-handed. They were murdering us … they would make us run through the streets and then shoot at us.

There was blood flowing in the streets.

At the time Amnesty International reported that eyewitness accounts and verified videos showed security forces firing metal pellets into crowds from street level and rooftops, including mosques, frequently targeting people’s heads and torsos.

Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei denounced the demonstrators as “rioters”. Then on January 8 and 9, the repression escalated into a full-blown blood bath.

Cars burn in a street in Tehran, Iran.
Cars burn in a street during a protest in Tehran on January 8.()

“On Enqelab Street, when I saw people falling, I didn’t understand what was happening,” the protester tells 7.30.

“I didn’t realise that the person who had fallen had been killed by bullets. There wasn’t even a chance to get to them.”

Medical facilities were reportedly overwhelmed. Families frantically searched morgues stacked with bodies for missing loved ones.

“On January 8, when a young man was shot in his throat, I performed CPR on him with my own hands,” says a doctor in his 40s, who doesn’t give his name out of fear of punishment.

“While I was giving him mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, he died. My mouth was full of his blood. I failed to save him.”

The UN Special Rapporteur on Iran, Mai Sato, said that at least 5,000 people had been killed, while the US-based Human Rights Activists News Agency (HRANA) estimated the death toll was 6,508, a figure that does not include the deaths of more than 220 children. 

HRANA is still reviewing some 11,700 cases.

A mural on the side of a building depicting senior Iranian military commanders.
This mural in Tehran depicts senior Iranian military leaders. ()

Authorities say that at least 300 members of the security forces were killed but the true extent of the January massacre may never be known. 

A government-imposed internet blackout that lasted almost 90 days cut the flow of information to the outside world.

Is ‘real freedom’ possible?

This latest revolt comes just three years after the “Woman, Life, Freedom” movement, which was triggered by the death of 22-year-old Mahsa Amini, who was detained by the morality police for failing to strictly follow the hijab dress code. 

A portrait of Mahsa Amini stands next to an Iranian opposition flag during a protest
A portrait of Mahsa Amini stands next to an Iranian opposition flag during a protest.()
A motorcycle burns as protesters and people in cars and motorcycles pass by
A police motorcycle burns during a protest over the death of Mahsa Amini in Tehran.()
A police motorcycle burns during a protest over the death of Mahsa Amini.
The death of Mahsa Amini triggered the “Woman, Life, Freedom” movement.()
A large group of female protesters dressed in black chadors at a protest.
Supporters of the government also rallied against protests over Mahsa Amini’s death. ()

At least 550 people, including women and girls, were killed during those protests, according to HRANA.

Iran’s Foreign Minister and the Vice President for Women & Family Affairs did not grant the ABC’s request for an interview when we were in Iran but during our time in Tehran, we see women of all ages openly flouting the hijab laws and no longer wearing their headscarves.

Two women walking past a market stall and inspecting produce.
In the streets of Tehran, plenty of women are seen without hijabs. ()

It appears Iran is now at a crucial crossroads, caught between its commitment to faith and its struggle for freedom.

A woman and her nine-year-old daughter sit on a bed. A pink dress lies on the bed between them.
Rahele Najafizadeh, 47, with her daughter Rezwan, 9, at their home in Tehran. ()

“What I want is to live in a society where people — men and women — love God and strive to do what he asks of them,” Rahele tells 7.30.

“If everyone loved God and followed His teachings, there would be no wars and no injustice. People would live together in peace.”

The city of Tehran viewed from a lookout.
A view of Tehran taken from Tochal, a popular scenic lookout where residents go to relax with their family and friends.()

Peace is also what the young protester wants, but she says it will only come if the regime falls.

“My dream for the future is to see a free Iran soon,” she says.

Four people sit at a lookout where the city of Tehran can be seen below them.
Iran today is caught between its commitment to faith and its struggle for freedom.()

“Freedom is not just about wearing a hijab. Real freedom is when you don’t fear speaking or expressing your views. It means not being afraid simply to exist.” 

Credits:

Reporter: Karishma Vyas

Photography: Daniel Pannett

Digital production: Jenny Ky and Myles Wearring

Editor: Paul Johnson

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